Some lessons for men getting their hair cut!

First off... Yes I am a female hair stylist. This does not mean I ONLY do female hair cuts

About 80% of my clientele is male. I loooove doing mens hair cuts and the relationships I have. Mens haircutting is very satisfying because if one wants to change their look we just have to wait 6-10 weeks to grow it out. Men are also amazing clients because they remain loyal for so long. A women will typically get her hair cut 4 to 6 times a year max. IF she gets color I see her every 8ish weeks depending on what color effects I do. Men on the other hand, I see every 4-8 weeks max. However the biggest difference between mens and women's haircuts are that men usually just say "I don't know what I want..." or "Your the professional, you decide!" I hate that men not only do not have the knoweldge about their hair but in this society are told to not care! YOUR HAIR IS YOUR CROWN!!!!!!!!!! So I wanted to give a quick lesson and pointers to forging your perfect crown.

First off there is a difference between a barber and a hair stylist.

A barber can use a straight razor with no guard and (typically) work majority with male clientelle..... Thats pretty much it. In my state to be a hair stylist you must take 1200 hours to apply for licensure testing. To become barber its usually ANOTHER 1000 hours to practice with straight razor and its needed! I've used them before and it scares the shit out of me to put a blade to someones neck but it makes a cleaner cut and taper. But we'll get on to that later. If you don't want a straight razor a practiced hair stylist might work just as well for you.

Also please before I start please dont take the shearto yourself. It never really ends well.

I have fixed SSSSOOO many do-it-yourselfs or mom-did-it or I-was-so-drunk-I-don't-remember-who-did-it. Then you end up paying anyways. I worked hard to become as talented at my job as I am.

Now first thing to look at is length.

Now length is very imporant to a mens hair cut and how it will be cut. If you want your sides and back of the head done under 1 1/2 inches I say you should absolutely do a clipper. The sizes of guards go from 10-00000. My zero guards do go from 0A (meaning just above a zero) to a 5 zero. then I have my trimmer which is as close as I can get without literally shaving your. Anything above an inch and half should be shears. Honestly for me anything above and inch should be shears as it is harder lines meaning piecey like in the pic above! Ask your hair stylist to measure your hair! We have a ruler on most of our combs!!!!!

Next is style and the amount of time you will be willing to put into your do

Now DO NOT come into a shop and say you want this without wanting to put in 5 tiny min to style your hair. It doesnt take long but if you cant do it then dont wear it. Its ok to not want to have a well put together look but then you can not expect these kinds of cut with out the effort on your hand. You cant buy a car and complain you need to put gas into it to take you somewhere!!!!!!!

Next you want to do it discuss your texture.

I FREAKING LOOOOVE curly hair on men. It can make the best styles. it also means more upkeep. Curly and straight hair can usually have the same cuts but the method is different and the results vary.

Next is tapering.

Now TAPER means that you get lower to the scalp as you get closer to the neck line. Meaning if you wanted a taper starting with say a 4. That would be above your partial bone (below your temple where it rounds out) then a 3 to your occipatal (bulgy bone in the back of you neck... you you are not an alien we all have them) then a 2 and your nape (neck hair line) this of course has "half steps" in between to blend. This fellow in black and white as a very sold look meaning little to no taper. But all mens hairstyles taper slightly as it adds a masculne edge.

This is a good example of a taper

See how it hugs the head? I think it provides better out growth so you keep that new hair cut look longer.

THIS IS A FADE

Now a fade i a more severe taper. It usually blends to a 0. But if you want this kind of tight 0 fade you can really not go any longer then 4 inches on top of your head with out if not being able to blend well.

For my bearded gentlemen

A beard is one of my favorite things. I love a lil scratchy sexy stubble, i love thick beards and everything in between. I suggest if you want a thicker beard to trim it not shave it every few days and apply an oil. But don't worry if you can grow one yet, that means you have a smaller chance of losing your hair. You win some you lose some. But if you do have a luscious bird nesting beard you MUST compliment it with your hair cut and have it almost reflect the size or shape on top or else you will look like an upside down candy corn

SIDE BURNS

Side burns is one place where men also say a lot "I DONT CARE." wellll you should. They sculpt your face. I say blend them out to give you a longer face shape, put them above or below your cheek bone to contour or take them high to square your face!

Another hidden treasure no man seems to care about.

Your neck line is imporant. I know you can't see it but we all can and its one of those subtle things that can tie your look together and you have to get it done anyways! Make them hate to see you go but love to watch you walk away! Now I usually do what ever will be the most natural out growth. A very important thing to remember is, its not how you leave looking today, its how you look 2 weeks from now.

Details

Again go for more subtle. If you want stripes or lines do it in the back. If you want a hard part (literally where i take a trimmer and shave it in for you) then go slow. It does not take long for it to grow back and it hard to blend out.

The last part of any hair cutting I do it facial hair

I'll do an oil or help the hair and have it not get imgrown hairs in the future and keep it lush. Then I will accentuate the jaw line. Who doesn't like a sexy jaw?

Finally product!

The thing men usually know or care the least about! The first step is to buy professional hair products SOLD IN A PROFESSIONAL SALON! If you buy american crew from walmart guess what? Its not quality. Its old, or counterfeit. There have been studies done showing that if you buy professional quality products you save money. It is more consentrated and doesnt have alchohol or other fillers. You use a 3rd as less if you fallow directions. It also saves you time by speeding up drying time and not having to BUY MORE PRODUCT that has probably expired anyways

Now the main differences

A gel based product is a hard hold meaning it dries stiff and usually crunchy. if you not using the right stuff it will cause build up and crumble in your hands. a wax based product (usually a pomade theres really not much of a difference now) was a flexible hold meaning you can touch it but it wont stay as well. Now finishes, shine means literally shine. I am not a fan as it looks like you can not touch it. A matte finish means no shine. I looove matte finishes and always use them. They make your hair look expensive and more natural. If you have curly hair use a wetter, creamier wax or pomade. For more hold apply dry, for less hold apply wet as some will avaporate.

Now styling is imporant.

Even the best cut can not be worn nice without the right styling. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG with a man using a blowdryer,dry shampoo (holy shit is that amazing but I cant get into that now) or anything else. We are all people and I love to groom. I think it's good for self asteam. Look how good cats are off!

THIS IS WHAT PRODUCT CAN DO!

You think Ryan Gossling just wakes up in his goose nest or what ever looking that god damn hot!? NO. He uses product....

Brows

DONT GO OVER BOARD!

But they can really help out

Again nothing is wrong with a man caring about his apearance. I do a lot of guys brows. I stay very natural, still I know guys are worried about seeming to femine for doing this. but I assure you no women has ever said "You know Kim... All I want is a big, sexy guy with a HUGE unibrow." But if you wanna rock it do it! Just never feel wierd about wanting them done. They frame and contour the face

Finally

In conclusion I hope you all enjoyed or learned a little something. I was going to write a career stories album but thought was actually more helpful. I know it was a lot but I really do enjoy my job and get the most out of it when I know someone feels and look amazing. I love my boys that have remained so loyal to me for hair cuts! My last bit of advice is please be nice to your barber/stylist. We stand for 7-12 hours a day non stop, listen to other peoples problems and truly care about you and your hair! If anyone has any questions I would love to answer! I dont need points I would just love it if someone saw this and understood and enjoyed something that they have to do all the time.

"Fam what you want ?" "I wanna feel like a safari hunting trophy" "Say no more"

PS I know my spelling errors are there. There is a reason I became a hairstylist.