I just want to say as an armchair expert... I can definitely beat her... At falling down and hurting myself... no not while attempting the climb, but while watching her climb
It's just a completely different kind of sport with a different focus. More like swimming or sprinting. An olympic pool or racecourse is also the same every time. The focus is on improving, optimizing, and competing something directly measurable. Some people like that kind of thing, others prefer the weird combination of athletic effort and puzzle solving that is sport climbing.
She might have some weight dangling on it to practice the motions without having to pull 100% of her bodyweight? I don't think anyone could belay that fast (or at least I couldnt)
Yesterday I smashed my PB on the speed climb at my local climbing wall by a whole four seconds (from 19.5 to 15.5, on a climb where 20 is considered a good time).
I'd been out for a friend's birthday the night before and drunk about ten beers.
So clearly the hangover was somehow performance-enhancing.
I wish people would tie their hair up properly around all that rigging. It's like the ones that do the weights and get the pony tails/ loose hair caught around the bars. Instant crop cut. It makes me anxious.
Ya dude! It's called flow, or being in a state of flow. Big sports psychology topic, and lots of other areas too. Such a great place to be. Some marathons ive run i remember seeing a mile marker and being shocked like omg what happened to the last 5 miles!?! Its like a perfrct meditative state where the body knows everything it needs and just does it.
Yeah, that's complete bullshit. You're looking at the result of YEARS of repeating this exact standardized route hundreds of times, optimizing every little detail of the movement, studying the videos to eliminate the tiniest imperfections. Meanwhile the route itself is not hard at all. Even the very first time, your brain isn't telling you "you can't". You'll just take 20 times longer than this.
My suggestion was the lass was ignoring gravity and running up a vertical surface. The only way I could think of that being possible, was she never learnt about gravity. (Some people may suggest she is just very, VERY fit, but that seems illogical tom me...)
I remember trying wall climbing like 25 years ago or so. It was surprisingly difficult! Like I'm reasonably fit and I figured it'd be something like climbing ladders, which is something I could do. But even on the beginner walls, the uneven placement of the things you can grab on to really changes the dynamic a lot. I remember feeling muscles that I didn't even know I had hurting for a few days after that. It was quite the experience!
Done belaying only a handful of times and only reached the half way point,man its exhausting plus the finger pain. Done a bit more bouldering and some of the difficulty levels i just dont get. Its possible and kudos to the people who are able to do it.
I ran a climbing gym, loved having "gym fit" guys come in, it was a real wake up call for them to realize they were really only getting better at lifting weights, but couldn't lift their own bodies. The ones that got it usually stuck around, and their overall fitness increased. The ones that didn't went and did some more roids and worked on their biceps.
It always reminds me of Bruce lees philosophy on working out and martial arts. Bulk is nice but if you only have strength and not speed, whats the use? Having thay dexterity does make a difference. I personally find people who bulk up but lose flexability from the size of their muscles hilarious.
I have no hate towards anybody that wants to look like that of course. People can do whatever they want with their own bodies. But it was pretty funny.
I used to free climb in college and used to be in very good shape. That’s was 25 years ago and for a litany of reasons I am no longer in such shape. Literally pulled a slew of muscles on a kids climbing structure at the playground last week. Any suggestions for how to work(ease) back into fitness like this? I miss it very much.
start with stretches. only climb for as long as your hands can take it, its really easy for your brain to get excited when it starts remembering and want to keep going. I've had several life-imposed stops to my climbing, and every time coming back its the same - getting over-excited is the fastest way to injury. Go slow, take your time, and lots of stretches
gym bro the guy is poking fun at. Start with bodyweight, 100%, and decide what to specialize once you get mobility and habit back. When you are starting out, forming the habit is WAY more important than what you do. The first 2 weeks you should just focus on doing the routine, the first 2-3 months you should focus on completing the things you set out and get a sense of how long it takes. Arnold (other body builders) have said /2
Arnold and the pillars of gym bro culture will tell you if they had no weights, they would do the basic 4: pushups, dips, chinups, body squats. I am working on knee str/mobility again so I do knees over toes lunges with those as well.
Ease is the right word, the muscles will come back quickly, but the tendons and ligaments take 10 times as long. Go slow and stay consistent with it. Unfortunately there is no magic bullet for aging. (I'm in the same boat)
It stays taut but it doesn't provide upward force. As you move up, it moves up. You could argue that it helps a bit because you can pull yourself up and rely on it to keep you there but all upward force is being provided by her.
The strap is an autobelay, it pulls you up to a tiny extent as it has slightly more power than required to carry its own weight. It's a magnetically braked system so the the faster it tries to spin the more it resists, making sure you always descend at a safe speed, but you'll always freefall the first meter or so as you fall for it to spin up.
That's not too little when you weigh that little, and the wall is slanted like that. I assume she's using it more to keep her center of mass closer to the wall, pulling her towards it, rather than pulling her up.
Eh, I'm probably still impressed, but less so. I sure af couldn't do it.
What percentage of her propulsion is from her legs vs her arms for a run like that? It barely looks like either half is working hard (but obviously they are).
It's pretty close to 50-50. She's lifting her body weight as centered as possible across all limb contact points and using any generated momentum to combat gravity and transfer energy from legs to arms as she ascends.
It's more a pre-lay at that point where you're furiously feeding rope ahead of her ascent as fast as you can and just being ready to pull back into lock position if she misses a grab or step and falls just in case the auto belay fails.
You don't, no one does this kind of training on a standard setup.
If you are outdoors you either put in carabiners or Trad protection like cams and knuckles as you go. Indoor speed routes are setup at a particular angle with particular holds so that you can climb quickly and fall safely. Outside of crazy people doing crazy things no one would climb with anyone trying to do this on anything but a specially made speed course with autobelay.
Would that system he capable of pulling her up? There's a wierd change of her vector mid-air with nothing obvious that could give her the means to change her trajectory.
I've always assumed the pros like her, besides being plenty strong, are comfortable with the autobelay so they just sprint and don't worry about falling? I feel like developing that ... uh ... mindset ? would be key to getting really good/fast at this.
The secret is that you climb with your legs, not your arms. Arms are for balance. Sure you'll see dramatic overhangs and people dangling by one arm, but you'll basically never do that as an average climber, let your legs do the work.
I think it is training video and she may have weights on the other end. When she gets to the top you can see it being run to the side and there is tension on the rope the entire time.
I noticed that myself. I had to watch them a couple of times because I wanted to confirm it. She's just so damn fast and consistent that it looks like it's lifting her up. But yeah, there's slack the whole time. She just makes it look easy. She may be faster vertically than I am running horizontally.
They have some that are like humanless pullies so they are weighted a bit so if you miss a step and fall you slowly come back down as if a human were holding the other end of the rope. So in this case its probably weighted pretty close to her weight so it looks like its pulling her a little. I dont think that takes away from her skills at all, just saying
whatever the weight provides is subtracted from what she has to overcome while climbing. it looks to me as if shes just letting the rope do almost all the lifting.
There's two "ropes". One on the auto belay (yellow) which is obviously slack. The other (thinner) rope isn't supporting her weight - her arm is _under_ it, and if it was supporting her weight it would pin her arm.
The brake doesn't engage (and it's a brake, not a counterweight) until tension is put on the line. To take up the slack while she climbs the whole system reels in with slightly over the weight of the rope's worth of tension.
They're designed to make you fall slowly, to avoid injury... While it would be entertaining to see climbers just free fall from the top, that would completely negate the entire purpose of the safety line.
volock
I just want to say as an armchair expert... I can definitely beat her... At falling down and hurting myself... no not while attempting the climb, but while watching her climb
rbudrick
I cant crawl on a floor that fast.
burley007
Oh lawd she climbin!
somethingnotyettaken
That's really cool. But is it seriously something you can do professionally?
jesusmaryandjosephstalin
I hurt my back this weekend organizing a closet.
aface62
EscalaDora the Explora! https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPWE1NzM3M2U1cHc1OXA2dDN1cmp4Y3lkYzFkaGFnbXkzeGZ4enJydDM4c2p4bGw0aSZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/1kTRyxHDbMNGem3Sb9/200w.webp
yrypics
"Escaladora" is such a beautiful word for "climber".
alwaysupvotethegoat
https://media3.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTY1YjkxZmJlNG83NWw1aWpyeW15dmRsaG5iYTg5cWd2Mm1zdXhmNnd2dmF3eXVtZCZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/eee5u0TOV9sLXBZpiJ/giphy.mp4
phoony
Also a nice contribution to RHM.
thomn8r
How much is pull is she getting from the rope?
brazzy42
A comment from someone claiming to run a climbing gym said about 8lbs of force.
ourari
Stupid sexy monkey
ManholeStellarReconveneSubstanceOlympicsReunion
Autobelay? What's an autobelay?
{TORQUEMADA (JEWS)}
It's what you oughtn't to do but you do anyway
TerribleBot
DrR5
This the real deal.
Zixtank
Never seen cake move that fast before
sfm12
I could tell right off the butt she was going to be a good climber…bat
Chimaeraxxxxx
Speed climbing seems so much less fun to me than bouldering. It’s the same route every time, nothing to figure out except how to keep doing it faster
brazzy42
It's just a completely different kind of sport with a different focus. More like swimming or sprinting. An olympic pool or racecourse is also the same every time. The focus is on improving, optimizing, and competing something directly measurable. Some people like that kind of thing, others prefer the weird combination of athletic effort and puzzle solving that is sport climbing.
Isorikk
She definitely did not skip leg day ever
commanderding
I got cramps just watching this
lightfoot2
There's a human soul at the top of that wa......
akafluffy
People say gingers have no souls, that is patently untrue, they get one freckle for every soul they've taken.
IMakeLotsOfReferencesAndRemakes
OnlyByMoonlight
https://media3.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPWE1NzM3M2U1ZjhkZnFyOGJ5eDcyaG4zMTUybjQ2ZmR3eTNnYXkzeDRsNWNsMThnMSZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/65ODCwM00NVmEyLsX3/200w.webp
pareidoliaperson
E x e p l a i n
ricpaul
There are several superstitions regarding people with red hair, including them having no soul.
mikeatike
Ginger
LordElups
https://media3.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPWE1NzM3M2U1M3hyYWIwM241Z3BibjV5cXV4NWczemtjbXZyNWNyMnZ2cDJta2l3eSZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/9EwnzGNjvmIG4/200w.webp
UglyDanTheUglyMan
huuman monky
NorwegianSheepknuller
Shit me timbers, took me multiple minutes to get to the top and then I was too afraid of letting go.
NorwegianSheepknuller
I was hooked up to an automatic thingy and when I did let go it took it a second to register so I got burn marks in my crotch.
Exdeath5000
If there was a beautiful marriageable woman that wanted me at the top of that wall I could totally...... still not do that :(
michiyl
Spider Gwen?
ATastyCorpsesicle
Gwen's blonde, though.
wisher1977
Spider Gwen. Does what a spider can...
Imademyselfsquirtle
Butt
ih8clickb8
lonelyrangerofthedreams
I don’t know, you choose the time.
IWantToHugEveryCat
Imo speed climbing is meh. I would rather see someone do hard boulders.
DesperateDunn365
Different courses for different horses. I find both very impressive.
hemakesupforit
What mechanism is keeping the slack out of the rope? (Not the auto belay strap .. but the rope)
RocknRollDr
She might have some weight dangling on it to practice the motions without having to pull 100% of her bodyweight? I don't think anyone could belay that fast (or at least I couldnt)
hemakesupforit
Exactly...the only way I could think is if the belayer started running in the opposite direction with the rope when she started climbing... lol
RoutemasterFlash
Yesterday I smashed my PB on the speed climb at my local climbing wall by a whole four seconds (from 19.5 to 15.5, on a climb where 20 is considered a good time).
I'd been out for a friend's birthday the night before and drunk about ten beers.
So clearly the hangover was somehow performance-enhancing.
whatthewoda
Clarity was achieved.
exploradoresciclos2018
😮😂👍
Madalchemist2018
I am so out of shape I got to PB and stopped to think oh man that's sad he smashed his sandwich now he can't have a treat at the top if he makes it.
RoutemasterFlash
Heh.
Glad it wasn't "pubis bone", anyway.
inquisitivefluff
I wish people would tie their hair up properly around all that rigging. It's like the ones that do the weights and get the pony tails/ loose hair caught around the bars. Instant crop cut. It makes me anxious.
Freemasonry
Sure, but gotta look good for the content
inquisitivefluff
I guess, if they got stuck via their hair, it would probably increase the amount of views the content would get.
Freemasonry
So it's the sort of shoot for the stars kinda situation? Where if you miss you've got something to laugh at
SF0X
Sometimes it is easier to do something before your brain can tell you, “you can’t”, or “you shouldn’t”. This is one of those examples.
ActualZedAxial
Ya dude! It's called flow, or being in a state of flow. Big sports psychology topic, and lots of other areas too. Such a great place to be. Some marathons ive run i remember seeing a mile marker and being shocked like omg what happened to the last 5 miles!?! Its like a perfrct meditative state where the body knows everything it needs and just does it.
brazzy42
Yeah, that's complete bullshit. You're looking at the result of YEARS of repeating this exact standardized route hundreds of times, optimizing every little detail of the movement, studying the videos to eliminate the tiniest imperfections. Meanwhile the route itself is not hard at all. Even the very first time, your brain isn't telling you "you can't". You'll just take 20 times longer than this.
UnrealEstates
Ahh, to be young and never studied Physics... (So she does not know that SHOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE!!!!!)
BillyM00n
Not snarking, just asking: How would that be impossible? 'Thing climbs stuff' seems common enough?
UnrealEstates
My suggestion was the lass was ignoring gravity and running up a vertical surface. The only way I could think of that being possible, was she never learnt about gravity. (Some people may suggest she is just very, VERY fit, but that seems illogical tom me...)
(Also, IT WAS A JOKE!)
WhoHim
Wile E. Coyote school of physics
MichikoTheJungleFox
I remember trying wall climbing like 25 years ago or so. It was surprisingly difficult! Like I'm reasonably fit and I figured it'd be something like climbing ladders, which is something I could do. But even on the beginner walls, the uneven placement of the things you can grab on to really changes the dynamic a lot. I remember feeling muscles that I didn't even know I had hurting for a few days after that. It was quite the experience!
Misteree8
Done belaying only a handful of times and only reached the half way point,man its exhausting plus the finger pain. Done a bit more bouldering and some of the difficulty levels i just dont get. Its possible and kudos to the people who are able to do it.
Xilir8
I ran a climbing gym, loved having "gym fit" guys come in, it was a real wake up call for them to realize they were really only getting better at lifting weights, but couldn't lift their own bodies. The ones that got it usually stuck around, and their overall fitness increased. The ones that didn't went and did some more roids and worked on their biceps.
ItsMoreComplicatedThanThis
Yes! I remember coming back to a climbing gym after I started lifting 10ish years ago.
"I'm much stronger than before, the same course should now be waaaay easier :D"
...
"Wow, that didn't help AT ALL."
Misteree8
It always reminds me of Bruce lees philosophy on working out and martial arts. Bulk is nice but if you only have strength and not speed, whats the use? Having thay dexterity does make a difference. I personally find people who bulk up but lose flexability from the size of their muscles hilarious.
MichikoTheJungleFox
Like this I think haha: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bj2yfvQGbl8
I have no hate towards anybody that wants to look like that of course. People can do whatever they want with their own bodies. But it was pretty funny.
Misteree8
Good point. That is fair
smorsdoeuvres
I used to free climb in college and used to be in very good shape. That’s was 25 years ago and for a litany of reasons I am no longer in such shape. Literally pulled a slew of muscles on a kids climbing structure at the playground last week. Any suggestions for how to work(ease) back into fitness like this? I miss it very much.
karcain
start with stretches. only climb for as long as your hands can take it, its really easy for your brain to get excited when it starts remembering and want to keep going. I've had several life-imposed stops to my climbing, and every time coming back its the same - getting over-excited is the fastest way to injury. Go slow, take your time, and lots of stretches
slipvyne
gym bro the guy is poking fun at. Start with bodyweight, 100%, and decide what to specialize once you get mobility and habit back. When you are starting out, forming the habit is WAY more important than what you do. The first 2 weeks you should just focus on doing the routine, the first 2-3 months you should focus on completing the things you set out and get a sense of how long it takes. Arnold (other body builders) have said /2
slipvyne
Arnold and the pillars of gym bro culture will tell you if they had no weights, they would do the basic 4: pushups, dips, chinups, body squats. I am working on knee str/mobility again so I do knees over toes lunges with those as well.
Xilir8
Ease is the right word, the muscles will come back quickly, but the tendons and ligaments take 10 times as long. Go slow and stay consistent with it. Unfortunately there is no magic bullet for aging. (I'm in the same boat)
omfglmfao
why does it look like the strap is pulling her up a little bit?
PPlank
Yeah, now do it without the string.
gumshoe99
Groan. Please go walk the plank.
SaintSleepyWeasel
It is.
mercyPandaRunner
Because it does. But only a little bit. Not enough to hold her.
Misteree8
Imagine having that much core strength and muscle memory that you launch yourself from one rock to the other vertically.
measuredby5
Yes thank you, like in slow mo she's in air nothing under her but forward momentum.
Snooj
It stays taut but it doesn't provide upward force. As you move up, it moves up. You could argue that it helps a bit because you can pull yourself up and rely on it to keep you there but all upward force is being provided by her.
ColonKoala
Because it is. While this is very impressive, it does provide resistance from falling to a degree.
Doing this without an autobelay would be significantly harder
thegarts
My guess is to keep the slack out.
InevitableBadger
The strap is an autobelay, it pulls you up to a tiny extent as it has slightly more power than required to carry its own weight. It's a magnetically braked system so the the faster it tries to spin the more it resists, making sure you always descend at a safe speed, but you'll always freefall the first meter or so as you fall for it to spin up.
exploradoresciclos2018
😉👍
imjustheretocrush
It's called an Autobelay. It pulls up with about 8lbs of force. (I operate a commercial climbing gym)
BurnieCinders
Having woken up in an MRI, that sounds like a great idea.
Ree81
That's not too little when you weigh that little, and the wall is slanted like that. I assume she's using it more to keep her center of mass closer to the wall, pulling her towards it, rather than pulling her up.
Eh, I'm probably still impressed, but less so. I sure af couldn't do it.
exploradoresciclos2018
Gracias. 👍😊
Theyhitmewithatruck1
What percentage of her propulsion is from her legs vs her arms for a run like that? It barely looks like either half is working hard (but obviously they are).
StellarJay77
It's pretty close to 50-50. She's lifting her body weight as centered as possible across all limb contact points and using any generated momentum to combat gravity and transfer energy from legs to arms as she ascends.
WellAckchually
I was just wondering about that because I was trying to imagine what it'd be like to belay for someone moving that fast
StellarJay77
It's more a pre-lay at that point where you're furiously feeding rope ahead of her ascent as fast as you can and just being ready to pull back into lock position if she misses a grab or step and falls just in case the auto belay fails.
rowanww822000
You don't, no one does this kind of training on a standard setup.
If you are outdoors you either put in carabiners or Trad protection like cams and knuckles as you go. Indoor speed routes are setup at a particular angle with particular holds so that you can climb quickly and fall safely. Outside of crazy people doing crazy things no one would climb with anyone trying to do this on anything but a specially made speed course with autobelay.
patotheduck
Finally, my pet fish can rock climb?
Isorikk
https://media0.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPWE1NzM3M2U1a3l6YTQza2NkYjRhNHdhNGZvZTc2d3JheHVrYTRvem1obGhzdTl0MiZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/uRLgOwBz81VL6GHACi/200w.webp
imjustheretocrush
I say you go for it!
PurifiedInTheWatersOfLakeMinnetonka
Excellent. https://media0.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTY1YjkxZmJlNmZ5dnI3aGY4endyMW1kYTVzYnQyb24xejExeDVjNXM2Mm56d2F3dyZlcD12MV9naWZzX3NlYXJjaCZjdD1n/5xtDarmwsuR9sDRObyU/giphy.mp4
MadnerKami
Would that system he capable of pulling her up? There's a wierd change of her vector mid-air with nothing obvious that could give her the means to change her trajectory.
zuken
Not really. It's enough pull to feel it but not enough to lift you or course correct.
[deleted]
[deleted]
Kaleopolitus
One safety system is none safety system. Two is one.
CrisprCAS
But one is none, so two is none, so...
SmoeAhsolse
I like this a lot. But the engineering manager might throttle me if I say it out loud at work.
rd77Runner
n+1 redundancy
MechaNinja
I've always assumed the pros like her, besides being plenty strong, are comfortable with the autobelay so they just sprint and don't worry about falling? I feel like developing that ... uh ... mindset ? would be key to getting really good/fast at this.
imjustheretocrush
Trusting the systems is one of the biggest struggles for most people climbing
MechaNinja
I can see that. I am scared to death of heights and if that'd be one of the things I'd really struggle with. The other main one being arm strength....
InevitableBadger
The secret is that you climb with your legs, not your arms. Arms are for balance. Sure you'll see dramatic overhangs and people dangling by one arm, but you'll basically never do that as an average climber, let your legs do the work.
crazyspelling
So. Many. People. Frozen. Even when top-roping. Even if we demonstrated.
ArchaeoEejit
And the actual rope?
OookOookOookMotherFudger
Safety line in case first one snags or fails.
imjustheretocrush
I think it is training video and she may have weights on the other end. When she gets to the top you can see it being run to the side and there is tension on the rope the entire time.
jeffois
Nah.
PirateRubberDuck
The person pulling that would barely be keeping up with her. Definitely not pulling her up. Both ropes show slack as she is going up.
SmoeAhsolse
It's winding up with a spring. Like in a retracting key ring or dog leash. But, you're correct that it is not helping her up.
I've only used them recreationally, but it may slack because she's just going too fast for the way it's designed.
Akurei00
I noticed that myself. I had to watch them a couple of times because I wanted to confirm it. She's just so damn fast and consistent that it looks like it's lifting her up. But yeah, there's slack the whole time. She just makes it look easy. She may be faster vertically than I am running horizontally.
PirateRubberDuck
Fast climbers just seem to fly up the wall.
kimbozo
They have some that are like humanless pullies so they are weighted a bit so if you miss a step and fall you slowly come back down as if a human were holding the other end of the rope. So in this case its probably weighted pretty close to her weight so it looks like its pulling her a little. I dont think that takes away from her skills at all, just saying
erinaceus
whatever the weight provides is subtracted from what she has to overcome while climbing. it looks to me as if shes just letting the rope do almost all the lifting.
2shortplanks
There's two "ropes". One on the auto belay (yellow) which is obviously slack. The other (thinner) rope isn't supporting her weight - her arm is _under_ it, and if it was supporting her weight it would pin her arm.
erinaceus
the gact that she falls so slowly at the end shows that she was climbing while weighing almost nothing.
SomeUser2
It doesn't have to be, e.g. if the brakes only activate when falling, it is not uncommon.
eggmuffin
I'd like you to try something: Think before you speak.
Fire a neuron or two. Use your imagination.
ThatHurts
The brake doesn't engage (and it's a brake, not a counterweight) until tension is put on the line. To take up the slack while she climbs the whole system reels in with slightly over the weight of the rope's worth of tension.
OookOookOookMotherFudger
They're designed to make you fall slowly, to avoid injury... While it would be entertaining to see climbers just free fall from the top, that would completely negate the entire purpose of the safety line.
Liith
You've clearly never been climbing before.